The stunning Fendi fall/winter 2021 couture collection was an extraordinary tribute to the roman heritage and the legacy of Fendi legends. We got a glimpse of Rome through the idiosyncratic eyes of the renowned Italian director Luca Guadagnino (you might have seen his revolutionary work in the movie “Call Me By Your Name”) and an opportunity to reminisce over the cinematic sensibility of late Pier Paolo Pasolini, another Italian director, poet and writer with the classical and hellenistic motifs highlighted in the collection. This collection will hands down be etched in history as one of the best ready-to-wear debuts of all time.
The models adorned in the frumoasa collection paraded through a giant ‘F’ disguised in ancient roman ruins and sculptures which were taken right out of the works of the infamous Bloomsbury set. Casting of the models was a brilliant representation of the plethora of eras captured with Kate Moss and daughter Lila Moss, Christy Turlington, Paulina Porizkova and Amber Valletta mesmerising everyone with their charisma. The entire creative space was dominated by a stunning earthy and marble color palette- beautiful tones and shades of taupes, caramels, ivories, blushes, chocolates and black brought the setting to life.
The collection was an outstanding harmony of different fashion ideologies and perspectives. Sticking to fendi’s iconic house codes the collection featured its fluid bias cut slip dresses, ribbed knit barrettes and paperbag shorts. Jones paid his respects to the legendary fendi predecessors by incorporating the soul of their work to the collection. The collection had Karl Lagerfield’s dramatic flair with shearling and fur coats and starred an upcycled rendition of the atelier’s archive(look 18). It was also an homage to the distinctive style of Silvia Venturini Fendi with the loose, oversized shirting and utilitarian leather jumpsuits. Even after channeling such complex inspirations Jones still managed to bring his own individuality into the collection with his timeless sheer logo tights, handkerchief hemlines and satin suiting.
Jones showcased an exceptional attention to detail. He depicts the minute details of roman culture and architecture. The graphic Cornely swirls of floral embroidery and lace are a modern interpretation of the corinthian columns. Elements of Roman mosaic shined through on the sheer tulle and ivory leather pressed in pleats. The silk gowns pooled jaw droppingly giving a trompe l’ oeil effect. The gold bodice with a framed silhouette resembled excavated painted ceramic artefacts. We have always seen accessories as something complimentary to clothing but Delfina Delettrez shattered those boundaries with her showstopping take on this collection’s accessories – the earrings and the heels were intricately designed inspired by the blueprints of ionic order volutes and rounded arch bridges; with gorgeous exaggerated fur lined tote and chinky chainlink earrings.
This collection can be dissected into infinite layers through diverse perspectives. Jones so beautifully brought together the works, visions and creative languages of such legendary artists who bring so much diversity to the collection. Yet he was able to perfectly pick and synchronise their unique characteristics without homogenising them. Taking inspiration from such supreme figures lands you with a rather heavy responsibility to create something worthwhile with their legacy – and no one could have done more justice to their practice than Jones did with this collection.
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